Part 21: Seoul, South Korea (#2: The DMZ)
- mpleva
- Jan 27
- 5 min read
The DMZ
6 AM found us waiting outside for a bus to take us to the border with North Korea. It's not surprising that a guided tour is the only way to gain access to the most heavily fortified strip of land in the world. The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is 4km wide, stretching 250km along the 38th parallel between North and South Korea. The Military Demarcation Line (MDL) running through the middle is the official land border between the two countries. Each side is of course heavily populated with armed soldiers.
It was more than a little unnerving to be at our first stop in under an hour. Imjingak Peace Park, located on the Imjin River, is only about 53 km (35 miles) north of Seoul, and 7 km (4 miles) from the MDL. It was built in 1972 to honor the tragedy of the war and hopes for reunification. It's a strange place, equal parts theme park, sculpture garden, museum, and shrine. On arrival the bus rolled past a huge amusement park ride, which was most unexpected. A gondola (closed at our time of visit) crosses the river, offering views of barbed wire and armed defenses rather than some stunning vista. Giant sculptures dot the open landscape, feeling extremely exposed. At the Mangbaedan Altar, incense is lit in memory of loved ones lost or long separated.
The Freedom Bridge seen from here was once used by POW's returning home from the North. The bullet-shredded remains of a steam locomotive - the last to cross the border - sits on a short section of tracks, forever going nowhere. A stretch of barbed wire fence is thickly cloaked in fluttering ribbons, most long faded, each inscribed with wishes for peace or names of loved ones - living, dead, or with fates unknown. Nearby, two Comfort Woman Statues sit in silent testimony to the victims of sexual slavery by the Japanese military during World War II. The sound of machine gun fire erupts sporadically in the distance, from various directions - not far away enough to feel "comfortable." Meanwhile, the peace bell rings once a day at noon. Formerly, once a year separated family members could reunite here - sadly the last occurrence was in 2018.
We also had the opportunity here to attend a presentation with a defector from North Korea. With our guide as an interpreter, she described the conditions that drove her to try to find support for her family, the perils of her years-long journey, and the pain of leaving her loved-ones behind. It was an incredibly humbling experience. But things would only get more intense. Moving on, armed guards would board our bus and check our passports against the manifest 3 times throughout the rest of our trip, and photos were no longer allowed.
Moving closer to the MDL, the Dora Observatory offered a close-up view of the barbed wire fence marking the start of the DMZ. A wall of windows on the 3rd floor looked out over the stark landscape of the Hermit Kingdom. The MDL was not marked by flags or fences that we could see, but was easy to identify, as the point where the landscape turned from green and lush (although laden with landmines) to utterly barren. All vegetation to the north was gone, eliminating cover for any who would attempt to cross, and used to fuel cooking fires.
Off in the distance, it's impossible to miss the giant flagpole (160 meters tall - a product of the "flagpole wars" between north and south). Beneath it sits the "propaganda village" of Kijŏng-dong. The supposed 200-family collective farm is really just a bunch of empty buildings, built in the 1950's as part of a propaganda campaign. The concrete shells are maintained by caretakers; windows are either empty or simply painted on; electric timers turn lights on and off. Massive loudspeakers mounted on rooftops once broadcast propaganda encouraging defection to the north. In the neighboring city of Kaesong, a massive bronze statue of Kim Il-Sung towers 25 meters over everything, while the people below struggle to survive.
From here we went to the Third Tunnel of Aggression (to date, 4 tunnels have been found), designed for a surprise attack on Seoul from North Korea. It was discovered in 1978 when an underground explosion was detected, and took about 4 months to locate and intercept. Wearing hard hats, we began a long and steep descent 240 feet below ground. Once we reached level ground, we passed the now defunct underground monorail station that was started in 2018 to connect to Panmunjeom, (aka the Truce Village, aka the Joint Security Area) which is no longer open for visitation.
The entire tunnel is about a mile long, extending 435 meters (1,427 feet) into the south side of the DMZ. For much of the accessible length, additional supporting scaffolding meant that even we (i.e. short people) had to duck. With 2 lines of people squeezing past in opposite directions, it felt pretty claustrophobic. The tall woman in front of us was having a pretty hard time, and eventually turned back before reaching the end. However, with the maximum height of the tunnel at almost 7 feet, it could accommodate an estimated 30,000 men with light weaponry per hour. Eventually we reached a thick iron barricade with a small opening that allowed for a glimpse into the rest of tunnel. Apparently we were within 550 feet of North Korea at that point. Wherever we were, it was time to squeeze our way back the long way that we had come. Sadly, in the confusion here David lost the beloved hat from his brother (sorry, Mike!).
Unfortunately we wouldn't get to see the JSA. This is the one area in the DMZ that is operated by both North and South, where diplomatic engagements and military negotiations happen, and where the Korean Armistice Agreement was signed in 1953. Previously open to guided visitors, this ended when an American soldier on a civilian tour ran from the JSA into North Korea in 2023.
Our last stop was Tongilchon Unification Village, a tranquil farming village located within the DMZ. You would never guess this tranquil place full of fields and blooming trees was so close to a militarized border. Originally intended to promote stability at the border, the land was allocated to former soldiers and displaced former residents. Families live rent-free, with generous tax subsidies, and receive military training and guns to defend themselves. In the past, threats and provocations would frequently send villagers to shelters for protection, but currently it is just a beautiful and peaceful place, famous for excellent ginseng, soybeans, and rice - and of course a huge gift shop (where David was able to purchase a new hat).
After a long and strange day, it was great to unwind back in Seoul with excellent craft beers at the Kiwa Taproom, in what had been a traditional tailor's shop. It was a perfect spot to sit quietly and people-watch, trying our best to make sense of all that we had seen that day - unable to forget that we were sitting within artillery range of an active war zone. Walking home, the Friday night streets were buzzing with activity, but we were spent and destined for bed.
For the rest of our Seoul adventures, see previous post:
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